It's been raining for three days and in my Gore-tex jacket and sneakers, I feel even more conspicuous than I already did while most Japanese women in Tokyo insist on running around in their tiny strappy sandals and high-fashion outfits in gail-force winds and rain. However, despite the fact that I am one of perhaps three blondes I've seen since I arrived, the Japanese actually don't pay me much mind. I've noticed as a general rule they are not big on eye contact, which makes me feel pretty anonymous for better or worse.

I've explored most of the major neighborhoods in Tokyo; Shinjuku, Ginza, Akasuka, Shibuya, Rappongi. Aurelio's house where I am staying is near Shinjuku, which is what most people think of when they imagine Tokyo's buzzing neon, thousands of people bustling in the streets, mass commercialism and grandeur. His neighborhood is quaint, and like many neighborhoods here, comprised of a network of lantern-lined narrow streets full of life and surprises. On Saturday, after a failed attempt to meet Ky for dancing in Rappongi, Aurelio took me out to one of his neighborhood haunts, a *tiny* (about 7' x 14') five-seat bar called Oxygen Funk. Tucked away on a tiny dead-end alley, the bar offered everything you could want and more (where else can you go and have the bartender whip you up a quick batch of chicken fried rice?). We even watched Jackass with Japanese subtitles.

Last night, Rick (the American) and I explored Shibuya, an area of town where you're hard pressed to find anyone over the age of 30. Rumor has it, this is where rich businessmen go to pick up high school girls. In exchange for company of one sort or another, the girls then receive gifts or money to buy the latest fashions, gadgets, whatever. Shibuya is also home to "Love Hotel Hill," which is home to dozens of hotels that offer "rest or stay" rates (i.e. by the hour). We took a stroll around looking at the illuminated photos of the often-garishly decorated theme rooms and speculated that perhaps the businessmen took the girls they picked up in Shibuya up the hill, did their business, and then sent the girls on their way down the hill to go shopping.

I leave you with some random observations. First, contrary to popular belief, the Japanese are not *that* short. They do, however, all have really cool cell phones (albeit, they all seem to have the exact same one, which they use to feverishly text message on the subway since phone calls are not allowed on public transport). Did you know that karaoke as we know it isn't all that common anymore in Japan? Here, most people go to a "Karaoke Box," where a group of friends can rent a booth by the hour. According the bartender at Oxygen Funk, this is because the Japanese generally like to confine the embarassment of their drunken crooning to their immediate friends. Doesn't seem as fun to me, but then I haven't tried it. The Japanese drink a LOT, and seeing strumbling drunks peeing in public is commonplace. (Aurelio is no exception to this rule by the way, which may cause me to leave Tokyo soon, but that's another story.) The biggest fashion trend for girls seems to be the schoolgirl look, sometimes with a sailor twist. I've never seen so many knee-high socks in one place. The food is really, really good. I tried shabu-shabu (thinly sliced beef that you cook by dipping it in boiling broth with vegetables) last night and had very tasty and CHEAP sushi with Ky and Tash for lunch. Also, it's true that fruit costs a fortune. I took a photo of $25 cantaloupes in Shinjuku. Speaking of food, time to go eat.