After full moon, we moved from Haad Rin to Ban Kai, the same beach Jon stayed at when he was here two years ago. We checked into the Blue Lotus Bungalow and Mexican Restaurant, owned by an American woman from the Bay Area named Shauna and her Thai husband, Pong. Mixed marriages that don't involve lascivious well-off European men pursuing hot young Thai bar girls are rare, so we enjoyed talking to Shauna since she was more than willing to give us some cultural perspective on Thai families, marriage and so on.

Shauna cured my Mexican food craving and made some delicious meals with fresh homemade salsa and tortillas that she whipped up at the time of order. There was no guacamole in sight, but Shauna just planted an avocado tree. I am quickly realizing how much I take California's availability of incredible food for granted. Just for me, please take a moment and enjoy an artichoke pesto, roasted pinenut, heirloom tomato and goat's milk feta pizza and think of me.

Blue Lotus was cute and friendly, but Jon and I both wanted a place with hammocks, a better beach and a nice common space. We moved the next morning down the beach to Lee's Garden where we have a sweet beachfront bungalow with hammocks for 250 baht (about $5.50). I sometimes need to remind myself that cheap smack-on-the-beach accomodation, ready access to cheap excellent food and fresh fruit, scenic beauty and unspoiled quiet places are not things to take for granted. It really is magical here.

Last night, I had a massage on the floor of a bar from this Thai woman named Pu who would periodically disappear from the massage to use the bathroom, smoke a cigarette or both. She'd sing along with the Thai pop songs on the radio while she kneaded and poked my muscles into submission, and sometimes, she would massage me with one hand while taking drags of her cigarette with the other. Meanwhile, an already-weaned 4-week old puppy, still wobbly and a little short-sighted, would try to work his way onto my massage cushion, fall off and begin whimpering. Jon sat across the floor drinking Chang beer with the Thai guys who run the bar.

It's still low season around here and it's just Jon, me and a Scottish girl named Elaine at the bungalows. It feels like a different island here on this quiet beach, and though meeting new people has not happened much over the past few days, I've felt entirely content and happy right here. I am entertaining the thought of Christmas/New Year's/Jan. 6 Full Moon Party right back in this spot.

Friday or Saturday we leave for Bangkok. Jon flies out next Thursday and we want to catch the weekend market in Bangkok as well as visit the old capital of Ayuthaya before he goes. More later.